Jökulsárlón

Reynisfjara was dark when we left this morning, closing up our little cabin and driving back into Vik for sustenance for the road ahead. The view from our cabin would have been mind-blowing in full light. Perhaps next time there will be a return visit…

Coffee and tea in hand, we set off into the snow. The landscape of South Iceland (Suðurland) is a brilliant, beautiful, extremely changeable beast. The lack of trees in this country is striking, and is most noticeable when the terrain is flat, stretching away from you on all sides in a sea of white. It doesn’t feel like Earth. It feels like something out of this world. We were driving alongside the largest glacier in Iceland, Vatnajökull, but the mountainous sides were not always visible.

We stopped for photos at the foot of the Öræfajökull volcano and wondered at the intense blue of the glacier that shone through. It continued to flirt with us all the way along the Ring Road until we finally arrived at Jökulsárlón. This is the iceberg graveyard, the lagoon where the glacier breaks apart before floating to the Atlantic Ocean. The blue of the ice is visible for miles and it looks like a painting come to life. You can walk right to the shore (carefully) and pick up the ice. The water tastes salty from the sea tide. It is one of the most exquisite sights I have seen in my travels.

It is a long drive – about three hours from Vik – and we were headed back past Vik to Selfoss so we had a long day of driving. It passed quickly enough – you can never get sick of the Icelandic scenery – and we stopped for a quick, surprisingly tasty truckstop burger for lunch. By the time we had arrived back in Selfoss, it was pitch black again. We are staying in an absolutely gorgeous farmhouse just out of town and Jules and the boys cooked a fantastic meal of chicken carbonara. I washed my hair (long overdue), and there is wine and playing cards and music. I think we’ll all sleep well tonight, but we might be up for the Northern Lights if the forecast is good…

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